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How to Use the Single Thread Embroidery Attachment

I have had many, many rare attachments over the years but this one is by far my very favorite to use. Curly-Q’s and Loopy-D-Loops make this attachment fascinating to watch!
 
 


The Single Thread Embroidery Attachment was made by the Singer Manufacturing Company beginning in 1930 and continuing up through the 1950’s It is yet another very scarce attachment to find today.

During the last years of production, it was referred to as a Style-O-Matic. (However, do not confuse the name “Style-O-Matic” with the actual Style-O-Matic Attachment which was from the 1930’s as well.)
 


You will not find the part number 26538 anywhere on the attachment; however, it will be stamped on the box. (The numbers you will find on the attachment are actually just the part numbers that are indicative of each specific part comprising the attachment.)
 

 

The Single Thread Embroidery Attachment can be used to add a special monogram to a quilt block, trace a stamped pattern for a pillow or tea towel or embellish a dress hem. Email us with your creative ideas – we would love to see what you make!
 


 
The video demonstration far below features the Singer Featherweight 221 Sewing Machine. You can sometimes still use the attachment on your 222K model Featherweight, however, it takes just a tiny bit more maneuvering to get it into position securely.

 
 
The area around the presser bar lever is just slightly wider on a 222 than a 221. The 222 is only 1/16 of an inch winder – just enough to notice that if you're going to try it on your free-arm model Featherweight, you will need to have some patience when trying to get it in position on your machine. (If you have the option of using it on either model machine, I would recommend using it on your 221 model Featherweight. The 221 Featherweight allows a better and proper fit of the Single Thread Embroidery Attachment.)

When starting out, make sure you apply the attachment before putting the needle in place, otherwise, the needle will just get in the way. Also, be sure to read through the instructions all the way through so you can become more familiar with how Singer originally instructed its use.

 

 
The L-shaped spool wire fits on top of the machine in one of the oiling holes and holds the spool of thread in place as the thread feeds down and into the attachment.

 

 
If you have not heard of the Sulky 12wt thread before, it is the best thread that I have found to use in these vintage Singer Embroidery Attachments and works well with the Two-Thread Attachment as well. It has a nice weight that is similar to the original Singer store samples and is available in a wide array of colors. But, don’t forget to be creative with your top and bobbin threads, too!

 

 
There is something to consider when searching for these attachments at yard sales, thrift stores or antique shops. There is a U-shaped spring at the back of the attachment that helps control the tension on the thread as it passes by the spring with each stitch. If this spring is broken or missing then you can no longer control the tension on the thread making it more difficult to create a consistent loop and stitch. There is not a replacement part for this U-spring, so it is definitely something to be conscientious of.

 


 
If you already own one of these attachments, there is something you can do to help preserve the life of your special attachment (if yours still has the U-Spring intact). Do you see the fork arm in the ‘down’ position as indicated by the red arrow in the photos above? See how the pressure on the back of the arm is released from the u-shaped spring when the fork-arm is raised? Storing your embroidery attachment with the fork-arm in the ‘up’ position will take the tension off the crucial U-Spring and preserve the life of your Single Thread Embroidery Attachment.

 



 
As you watch the video below take special note of how the attachment is creating each loop and stitch – if you have the rare occasion to own or sample one of these attachments, make sure it is oiled and work slowly, especially around curves. Your thread and bobbin tensions should be fairly normal. The stitch length should be set at about 12, but probably not much longer than 10. Occasionally for tighter curves, you will need to stop sewing with the needle in the down position for each stitch, lift the presser foot, barely move the fabric, make another stitch and repeat so you can work around those sharp turns.

 


Old-fashioned Singer engineering is brilliant, don’t you think!?
Remember, this was all accomplished on my Singer Featherweight 221!

  If you have any questions, feel free to e-mail or give us a call anytime.


 

 

 

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