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Featherweight Embroidery: A Quilter's Dream Stitch Along Part 4 ~ Finishing the Autumn Vintage Kit
by Ashley Fritsche

I'm Kristen from Verity Vintage Studio who walked you through stitching the beautiful Featherweight 221 counted cross-stitch last year! I'm excited to demonstrate the lovely, Featherweight Embroidery - "A Quilter's Dream" Vintage Autumn kit!

Borders

This past week I got all my half square triangles made, and finished piecing that tiny Dresden. All the elements are now ready to put this together and finish it up!

 

 


Supplies Needed:

  1. A Quilter's Dream Kit -  Vintage Autumn- If it is sold out, you can sign up for the in stock notification at product link, and you will be notified as soon as we have more kits available. 
  2. 4-inch or 6-inch Embroidery Hoop
  3. Glass-Head Pins
  4. Iron
  5. Sewline Water Erasable Roller Ball Pen
  6. Embroidery Scissors
  7. Hand-sewing needles in various sizes
  8. Already have the supplies on hand? Printed Pattern only is available here
  9. The Beekeeper Thread Minder by Lori Holt

At this point, I got to decide on the border layout. I wasn't too particular with this, just tried to get the most noticeable colors spaced evenly.

 

Keep checking with the pattern sketch to make sure they are oriented correctly. When you are satisfied with the layout, I highly recommend you take a photo so you have something to refer back to if you get confused while you are assembling the pieces.

I stitched the half square triangles for each side first. But when I matched up the triangle border to the embroidered fabric, the border was a half inch too long. I went back and checked my seam allowance, and sure enough, I had sewn some of them too shallow. Once I deepened them to a true ¼ inch, the border fit the picture.

 

 

Press the border well on both sides before sewing to the embroidered fabric.

 

 

I wanted to add the lace, so I auditioned a few different looks. You can use one, more than one, or stack them if you want. (If you decide to use a one-sided lace, you may want to put that on before sewing the border to catch the seam in the side.)

 

 

I decided to go for just the widest double sided lace, which I wanted to top stitch after the border.

 



A straight stitch using your Singer Featherweight will work perfectly fine for sewing lace.

After the lace is stitched, trim it to size.

Then you can assemble, press, and sew the the top and bottom borders in the same manner as the side borders.

 

 

Making a YoYo

Borders are sewn – now comes the fun part! Embellishment is always so enjoyable. This kit includes several options of lace and buttons, so you can use all or just part of them as you wish. Or of course you can add other tidbits from your own stash. This sort of thing is perfect for using up orphan buttons or odds and ends of vintage lace.

First, though, we need to make a yoyo to finish the center of that tiny Dresden we stitched last week. The kit has a yoyo template, which I traced onto one of the remaining charm squares and cut out.

 

 

You don't need to press in the edge. Just make a large running stitch around it, folding in the edge as you go.

 

 

It will quickly start shaping into a cup shape, which when you are all the way around, folds into the middle to make the finished yoyo.

 

 

I stitched it down around the under edge to the Dresden center. Didn't it turn out so cute?

 

 

Last Few Steps

Now we have all the elements together for finishing this picture. You can play around with different layouts. I decided to tie one of the smaller strips of lace into a bow and add that.

 

 

Once I was happy with the layout, I pinned the Dresden and bow in place, and marked where the buttons would go with my water soluble marker. All that was left was to stitch them in place securely.

 

 

All finished and pressed! I am very happy with how it turned out.

 

 

I wrapped a strip of Scotch tape around my fingers and patted it over the front to collect any the lint from the embroidery floss.

 
The very last step is to sew strips of fabric to the outer edge. These will not be visible from the front, but are used in the framing process later, so the fabric can be scrap fabric or just muslin.

There are detailed framing instructions included in the pattern as well, to help you with that final finishing step. (I think it would be super cute finished as a pillow too!)

 

And that wraps up the Autumn Vintage version of this lovely kit! It's been quite enjoyable. 

 

 

Goodbye!

 

Kristen

from Verity Vintage Studio

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